The example of Joalharia do Carmo

Joalharia do Carmo
Joalharia do Carmo

One of the oldest crafts of national goldsmithing, Filigree, suffered a setback in the 1990s when a new fashion concept spread to jewellery: minimalism. The aesthetic eliminated details, creating simpler shapes, more discreet curves, and a minimalist view, contrasting with the millimetric details of the 80s. Filigree was exactly the opposite of this new concept. Goldsmiths and filigree artists despaired to preserve their craft, hand-made Filigree, with ancestral techniques and tools.

In 2021, when the century-old Joalharia do Carmo joined Grupo O Valor do Tempo, we renounced selling any piece that was not Certified Filigree. Opposed to industrial production, we absolutely resisted the temptation to commercialize mass-produced jewellery, because we know that a unique jewel demands time and meticulousness for hands to work magic – something no machine will ever replicate. We allow ourselves the luxury of waiting for this magic to happen in the name of supreme luxury: uniqueness. To affirm our commitment, we signed a cooperation protocol to promote and publicize the certification of Portuguese Filigree with the Municipalities of Gondomar and Póvoa de Lanhoso – where Filigree is traditionally produced in Portugal – and A.Certifica, the certification body.

In 2025, we brought to life the social economy project of The Value of Time Group with the opening of a new experiential space on Rua das Flores, in Porto, where tradition and fantasy exist side by side. On the ground floor, a store inspired by Alice in Wonderland invites visitors to dream, while enchedeiras – traditional filigree artisans who delicately fill the fine gold or silver framework – work in full view, turning the artisanal gesture into part of the spectacle. The spiral staircase connecting the shop to the workshop is being clad in Filigree by the enchedeiras themselves – a project that will take years to complete, symbolising the patience and time this craft demands. On the upper floor, an open workshop allows visitors to follow the artisans’ work closely; these artisans represent 18 certified Filigree production units in Portugal. The space also houses a jewellery school in partnership with CINDOR, ensuring the training of future generations, a section of the Portuguese Mint and Official Printing Office (INCM) Assay Office, which demonstrates the hallmarking process in real time, and an exhibition dedicated to the artisans and their craft. This project is far more than a showcase: it is a living organism that blends commerce, craft, and education, takes artisans out of anonymity, and guarantees a future for one of Portugal’s most emblematic arts.

With traditional or contemporary design, with sapphires or diamonds, Joalharia do Carmo is today the showcase of Certified Portuguese Filigree. One of the most faithful representations of Portuguese popular culture is now presented to the world as a major symbol and hallmark of national jewellery, in the only space in the country that exclusively sells certified jewels.

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